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Soft shell crabs

By Sean Keeley, Culinary Specialist, Lincoln Land Community College

Soft shell crabs are blue crabs that come from the Chesapeake Bay area and usually have two seasons, weather permitting. These are crabs that have recently molted and for the next few days their shells are “soft,” meaning not rock hard. The shell does have some texture like paper, or very thin plastic. Most people like to bread and fry them to disguise the texture of the papery shell.

The first season is the entire month of May, and the second is either the first, middle or last two weeks of September. This is when they can be purchased fresh and still alive. Still moving is what you want – I have had some so fresh they would crawl off the table if you weren’t paying attention. When cleaning these crabs the really fresh ones can grab you and it’s a little surprising to say the least. My son has always been a seafood lover so he was hired to clean the crabs – much to the relief of myself and my crew. His sister was little enough to have fun cleaning these giant “bugs.”

One of my regulars, and good friend Skip would come in all of May for soft shells. He would always have a big party near the end of May and the main course featured crabs. I recall one evening he came in with a couple of guests and recommended them and they said “I thought they were poisonous” to which Skip replied “I’ve been eating them my whole life and I ain’t died once!” Skip liked them sautéed then grilled, and I like them served on a crisp veggie salad.

Cleaning soft shell crabs

Purchase your crabs the day you plan to serve them. You will need a pair of kitchen shears. First, remove the face of the crab, snip just behind the eyes and then remove the mouth flaps. This is supposed to kill the crabs instantly so if they are squirming around its just nerves – have no worries, they’re dead. Next remove the triangular flap on the belly. Finally, lift up the pointy part of the shell on each side and remove the gills. They are now ready to cook! You may also ask your fish monger to clean the crabs for you.

Soft Shell Crabs on Fennel and Arugula Salad

Salad Ingredients

  • 2 bulbs fennel, julienne – save some minced fronds for garnish
  • 1 medium red onion, julienne
  • 2 medium kohlrabi, peeled and julienne
  • 2 large garlic cloves, minced
  • 1 big handful of fresh baby arugula
  • 1 lemon cut in half lengthwise – quarter one half and keep the other half close by
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper to taste

Crab Ingredients

  • 4 soft shell crabs, cleaned
  • Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper to taste
  • 2 tablespoons butter
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil

Salad Directions

Start a medium sized charcoal fire in your grill, or turn gas grill to medium high heat. Now heat a large skillet with 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium high heat and add the fennel, onion, kohlrabi and garlic. Season with salt and pepper and sauté, stirring often for 2-3 minutes until the veggies are barely turning tender. Squeeze in the juice from the half lemon and stir in arugula. Divide the veggies onto four plates.

Crab Directions

Give the skillet a quick wipe and add 1 tablespoon olive oil and 2 tablespoons butter and return to stove over medium high heat. Sprinkle the crabs with salt and pepper and add to the skillet when the butter starts to foam. The crabs may start to move around – don’t worry, it’s just nerves again and they will stop moving soon. Sauté for one minute per side and then take them to the grill. Grill them for 45 seconds per side being careful not to burn. Charred is good, but not a lot of black. Place crabs shell side up on each salad and garnish with fennel fronds and lemon wedges. Enjoy!

Want to know more?

Lincoln Land Community College offers associate degree programs in Culinary Arts and Hospitality Management and academic credit certificates in Culinary Arts and Baking/Pastry. For more information call 217-786-4613 or visit www.llcc.edu/hospitality-culinary-arts.

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