This month’s article on wine brings closure to the debate over cork vs. screw tops for wine bottles, explains the 20-minute rule for wine and offers some holiday recommendations.

For many years, screw tops were a symbol of lesser wines. However, that is changing. Currently, screw tops in France are generally used for more of the lighter, fruitier, less expensive wines. Figures from market research Euromonitor show that screw tops account for 34% of the wine bottle tops sold worldwide. In France, the figure is 24%, which is a significant rise from  14% in 2017. The percentage varies by country, and in Australia and New Zealand, it is much higher. Let’s first talk about cork. 

Cork comes from a cork tree. Every nine years, a cork tree is stripped and corks are stamped out of the thick bark. The cork oak, or Quercus suber, is a fascinating tree species that primarily grows in the Mediterranean. Its unique bark is the source of the world's cork supply and a material that is used in a multitude of applications, from wine stoppers to insulation. Articles I consulted state that the process is not harmful to trees. They can live up to 200 years and produce thousands of corks in their lifetime. 

So why cork? It is porous and allows oxygen to slowly transfer into the wine, which helps develop more characteristics. However, corks can turn dry, crumbly, have holes and cause wine to oxidize prematurely. Cork taint, or TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisole), is a chemical compound that causes a musty, moldy taint in wine. It forms from the interaction of phenols, chlorine and mold. While it originates in natural corks, it can also come from contaminated winery equipment, barrels or wooden pallets. A wine with TCA taint has an undesirable aroma and flavor, often described as wet cardboard, musty or moldy. Normally, the bottle can be returned to the retailer for a replacement. Approximately 4-5% of wine bottles have cork taint.

Now, let’s talk about screw tops. In the 1960s, the French (yes France) company Le Bouchage Mécanique in Chalon-sur-Saône, Burgundy, began experimenting with screw caps for wine bottles. After years of experimentation and testing with wine industry professionals, the very first Stelvin aluminum closure was developed in 1964. Stelvin is now manufactured by the large Australian packaging company Amcor. 

In one large study, wines under screw cap tasted virtually the same (consistent), while the wines under cork fluctuated in quality and flavor. Busy bartenders (and my wife) prefer screw tops for they are easier to open and reseal. Lost, of course, is the traditional cork presentation by your restaurant server. 

Wine aficionados are notoriously picky about serving wine at the proper temperature. Pouring a white wine at the same temperature as a full-bodied red? Blasphemous! While it’s not an exact science, there’s a very helpful tip to keep in mind when serving wine at home known as the 20-minute rule. This quick trick goes as follows: White wine should be taken out of the refrigerator 20 minutes before drinking, and red wine should be put in the refrigerator 20 minutes before drinking. Most at-home wine consumers will drink white wine straight from the fridge and red wine at room temperature. While the wine might still be enjoyable, it probably doesn’t lead to the optimal tasting experience. If a white wine is served too cold, it can mask some of its flavors. Similarly, people tend to drink red wine a bit too warm at home. So popping that red wine in the fridge for 20 minutes before opening it will help give the wine some lift. The topic of temperatures and storage is another future article. Suffice to say, most agree that around 55 degrees is the sweet spot for storing wines — think castle cellar. 

I asked Zach from It’s All about Wine on Wabash Ave. and Danielle from The Corkscrew on Chatham Rd. for a few holiday recommendations. I also asked if they are seeing any trends with low- and non-alcohol wines. They both agreed that the trend is still not catching on in Springfield, and the quality of such wines is still lacking. Zach indicated that low- and non- alcohol beers are increasing in popularity. 

Holiday wine recommendations 

Zach from It’s All About Wine provided the following suggestions. 

• Conquilla Cava Brut at $20 – this Spanish cava is made in the traditional style with secondary fermentation in the bottle, which helps produce delicate bubbles and a velvety mouthfeel. The bright acidity helps cut through the richer dishes typically served during the holiday seasons.
• Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese at $45 – similar to the cava, this retains a vibrant acidity with some residual sugar that can refresh the palate and help cut through the richness of holiday dishes. 
• Block Nine Caiden's Vineyards Pinot Noir at $22 – this is a fun, budget-friendly pinot noir with light tannins and balanced oak. The lighter tannins won't clash with lighter-style turkey.
• David and Nadia Pinotage at $35 – this pinotage leans toward smokey and spicy while remaining juicy and medium-bodied. It pairs nicely with turkey, root vegetables, dishes with bacon or mushroom and savory stuffing. 

Here are suggestions from Danielle at The Corkscrew. 

• Daniel Pardlac Blanc de Blanc Brut at $16.99 – this has crisp acidity and delicate fruit notes, and it is good for celebrations, seafood and creamy cheeses.
• Chalk Hill Pinot Noir 2023 Sonoma Coast at $24.99 – it pairs well with grilled salmon, turkey, roasted chicken and mushroom risotto.
• Chateau Fortia Chateau Neuf de Pape 2021 at $49.99 – pair with white meat dishes or smoked fish.
• Tikal Jubilo Cabernet-Malbec Blend 2018 Mendoza, Argentina, at $49.99 – this is ideal for grilled red meats, rich stews and aged cheeses. 

My thanks to Danielle and Zach for their holiday recommendations. Please remember to support their local businesses. Carol and I wish you a festive Thanksgiving. We have fortunately passed all the holiday preparation on to our daughter. I bring the wines. 

Red wine mushroom sauce 

Yields 6 servings 

Ingredients 

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 teaspoons minced garlic
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
• 2 cups sliced button mushrooms
• 1 1/2 cups Cabernet Sauvignon
• 1 cup beef broth
• 1 bay leaf
• 1/4 cup water
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch 

Directions 

1. Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add garlic, salt, black pepper and thyme; cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add mushrooms; cook until tender, about 5 minutes.
2. Add wine, beef broth and bay leaf; cook until sauce is reduced by about 1/4, about 20 minutes.
3. Whisk water and cornstarch together in a bowl until smooth; whisk into sauce. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer until thickened, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove, and discard bay leaf before serving. 

OK to enjoy some of the wine while preparing!

About

Lincoln Land Community College offers credit programs in Culinary Arts, Hospitality Management and Baking/Pastry, and non-credit cooking and food classes through LLCC Community Education.

Cooking or food questions? Email epicuriosity101@llcc.edu.