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Comfort food and nostalgic thoughts

by Joshua Dineen, chef specialist, Lincoln Land Community College

Hello! I am the new chef specialist at Lincoln Land Community College and happy to be writing my first Epicuriosity 101 column. I am a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. My experience is well rounded, from L’Orangerie restaurant in LA, to Incredibly Delicious here in Springfield and local restaurant management. I have a thirst for knowledge, always craving to expand my love of food. I enjoy creating dishes for my culinary curious family.

It’s cold outside, and I find myself craving hearty comfort foods. In a conversation with my wife, we were discussing traditional French dishes that my family loves to eat at this time of year. As if on cue, a trailer for the movie “Julia“ started playing on TV, on the life of Julia Child.

“Baking with Julia” and “Mastering the Art of French Cooking” were some of the first cookbooks I purchased for myself as I started to really obsess over the world of food. Dishes like Boeuf Bourguignon and Coq Au Vin came to mind. I have cooked just about every recipe from her books over my many years of cooking, and Coq Au Vin, chicken in red wine, is one of my favorites.

Traditional French foods were an important part of my early years learning to cook. This of course became a huge part of my personal life, as I would practice those dishes at home. What’s not to love about chicken marinaded in red wine, then cooked slowly in that same delicious wine with bacon and vegetables? Once everything is tender and delicious, you add mushrooms and pearl onions.

I have made versions of this dish for my family that are quick 35-minute dinners with no marinating, served with mashed potatoes. I have also used expensive wines, and marinated the chicken for several days, cooking the chicken wonderfully slow and making a finished sauce out of the cooking liquid, then carefully plating it with baby vegetables and a side of Pommes Soufflés, to give the dish a little texture contrast.

Either way, it is delicious and satisfying. Honestly, the simpler version with a torn baguette and a bit of butter on it makes me smile as I think about dipping it in the rich sauce, followed by a bite of delicate chicken coated with that same sauce.

Here is one of the many versions of this dish that I have enjoyed cooking and eating with my family over the years.

Coq Au Vin

  • 2 chicken thighs and 2 chicken legs (or 4 thighs, or 4 legs), preferably skin on
  • 1 medium yellow onion chopped
  • 1 small carrot chopped
  • 1 celery stalk chopped
  • 4 cloves garlic
  • 2 sprigs fresh parsley
  • 1 sprig fresh thyme
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 cups red wine, something tasty- you can enjoy a glass of the same wine with the meal
  • 2-4 slices thick cut bacon, cut to half inch pieces
  • 1 tablespoon tomato paste
  • 4 tablespoons all purpose flour
  • 2 cups chicken stock
  • 1 cup pearl onions, peeled if fresh
  • ½ pound button mushrooms, left whole, quartered, or sliced- depending on your preference
  • To taste- salt and pepper
  • As needed- unsalted butter

Directions

  1. Marinade the chicken, yellow onion, carrot, celery, garlic, herbs and wine. Overnight is best.
  2. Place bacon in a pan and cook to desired doneness, I find everyone is particular about bacon.
  3. Remove bacon and set aside, reserving the bacon fat.
  4. Remove the chicken and vegetables from the wine, dry the chicken a paper towel, and season with salt and pepper. Reserve marinade for later.
  5. Brown the chicken, skin side first, in some of the rendered bacon fat. Remove the chicken and set aside.
  6. Add the marinated vegetables to the pan that the chicken was browned in. Cook them until softened and lightly browned.
  7. Add the tomato paste and stir over medium/low heat for 2 minutes to cook the tomato paste a bit.
  8. Stir in the flour and cook for 2 minutes.
  9. Add the wine marinade and chicken stock, stir over medium heat until liquid starts to simmer.
  10. Add the chicken and herbs to the pot.
  11. Cover the pot and bake at 350 degrees, or a slow simmer on the stovetop, for 45 minutes to an hour. Until the chicken is very tender, but not falling apart.
  12. Meanwhile, use some of the rendered bacon fat to cook the mushrooms golden browned. Remove the mushrooms and set aside with the bacon.
  13. Cook the pearl onions in boiling water until tender and then set aside with the bacon and mushrooms.
  14. Once the chicken is tender, remove it from the pot and set aside. Strain the sauce and discard the herbs, carrot, yellow onion, and celery.
  15. Place the chicken, bacon, mushrooms, pearl onions and sauce back in the pan. Bring back to a light simmer. Let cook for a couple minutes to warm and mingle flavors. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper as needed.
  16. If you want, gently stir in a tablespoon of butter to add a little richness to the sauce. Top with chopped parsley. Serve with potato dish, rice, or pasta if you like. And or course a piece of torn baguette buttered.
  17. As Julia would say, “Bon appétit!”

Lincoln Land Community College offers credit programs in Culinary Arts, Hospitality Management, Baking/Pastry and non-credit cooking and food classes through LLCC Community Education.

Cooking or food questions? Email epicuriosity101@llcc.edu.

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